Guidi’s Arte Povera
Full grain refers to animal hide without sanding or buffing on its surface. Wrinkles, scars or even insect bites can sometimes be found on full grain leather but the grains left un-sanded allows for strength, durability and breathability. Full grain is considered the top grade among leather. They are durable and needs time to ‘wear in’ but instead of wearing out, they will eventually develop a soft seen on its surface called patina. Patina adds weathered look and can be only achieved with grade 1 full grain leather.
And then there is suede leather. Even though the inner side of a grain leather does feel like suede, the difference is suede is a hide with its top-grain completed removed. Suede leather should have ‘fuzzy’ texture on both sides where as reverse leather is literal in its name, grain side is at interior and fuzzy flash side is at exterior.
Guidi was founded 1896 in Italy as a leather tannery. Guidi's leather heritage and shoe-making techniques has been passed down on generations for 120 years and today, Ruggiero Guidi leads Guidi with dedications to follow its traditions towards leather. Steering away from mass production, Guidi designs are somewhat earthy, rugged and avant-garde. They almost appear as an Arte Povera work, where a group of 1960s Italian artists manifested return to simple objects and messages by incorporating organic and industrial materials. Guidi shoes trace its own transformations - they are man-made shoes without particular finishings, because only a true craftsman can present such details.
For 2017 SS, Guidi presents its famous 788z boots in black, white and red full grain horse leather. 788z features mid-rise zip up ankle with stacked leather heel at back and has been highly sought after even in vintage markets for many seasons. There are classic oxford and derby shoes in horse or kangaroo full grain. They follow simple classic design forms with Guidi’s signature avant-garde like rugged finishing and tanning. RN01 sneakers feature Japanese shoe brand, Onitsuka Tiger’s silhouette in white reversed kangaroo leather. It’s like reconstructed Onitsuka Tiger made with traditional Italian fundamentalism.
